Destinations · Asia

Vietnam

Hanoi, the mountain roads of the far north, and the karst bays on the coast.

Currency

Dong (VND)

US visa

E-visa, 90 days

Ride app

Grab

Best time, north

Mar to May, Sep to Nov

Tap water

Don’t drink it

Daily budget

About $35

Guesthouse room, local food

Routes

How much time have you got?

Vietnam is 1,000 miles top to bottom, so each route is built around how far you can realistically get. Each one gets its own day-by-day itinerary.

Yellow colonial shophouses, stalls and parked motorbikes on Ta Hien Street in Hanoi's Old Quarter

Short on time

7 days, 6 nights

Hanoi · Ninh Binh · Lan Ha Bay

A tight loop from Hanoi. Two nights in the Old Quarter, two in Ninh Binh’s karsts, one on a boat in Lan Ha Bay, then a last night in Hanoi for your flight.

Full itinerary coming soon

Winding switchback mountain road through a green valley on the Ha Giang Loop

My pick · The classic

14 days, 13 nights

Hanoi · Ha Giang Loop · Ninh Binh · Lan Ha Bay

Three nights in Hanoi to beat the jet lag, four on the Ha Giang Loop, then the overnight sleeper straight to Ninh Binh. Finish on Cat Ba and fly home from Hanoi.

Read the full itinerary →

Weathered red-brick Cham temple with a saddle-shaped roof at My Son Sanctuary near Hoi An, Vietnam

See it all

24 days, 23 nights

Hanoi · Ha Giang · Ninh Binh · Hue · Hoi An · Saigon · Mekong

Fly into Hanoi and out of Saigon. Ten days in the north, a flight to Hue, the Hai Van Pass to Hoi An, then Saigon and two nights on the Mekong.

Full itinerary coming soon

Flying in from the US? Add your travel days on top. Every length here is time on the ground.

Seasons

When to go

For the north. The south runs on a different calendar, so check before you book.

Best

Mar to May, Sep to Nov

Clear, mild, good for the mountains

Hot and wet

Jun to Aug

Storms most afternoons

Cold and gray

Dec to Feb

Pack a real jacket for Ha Giang

Read next

Stories from Vietnam

I spent most of July 2023 in the north, and this is what I’d tell a friend. The Hanoi guide is up now. The rest are on the way.

Egg coffee with "Love Hanoi" piped on top beside a glass of iced tea

City guide

Hanoi for first-timers

Where to stay, what to eat first, and how to cross the street.

Bright green rice paddy stretching toward forested karst mountains with wooden stilt houses in northern Vietnam

Route guide · Coming soon

The Ha Giang Loop: self-drive or easy rider?

How many days, what it costs, and the stretch worth the whole trip.

Overhead view of a shared family-style Vietnamese dinner with spring rolls, rice and Bia Viet beer on a woven tablecloth

Money · Coming soon

What a day in Vietnam actually costs

Rooms, food, buses, and the dollar-here, dollar-there stuff that adds up.

Old Quarter street lined with yellow shophouses in Hanoi

Before you fly · Coming soon

Vietnam e-visa photo rejected? How to fix it

What the portal wants from your photo, and what to do when it comes back.

The monthly letter. One honest email on the 1st, plus a free field guide.

Before you go

What I’d sort out before the flight. Some of these are referral links.

Data

Airalo eSIM

Install it before you fly and you land with data. No SIM kiosk hunt at the airport.

Money

No foreign fee card

Mine is the Capital One Venture X. When a card machine offers dollars, pay in dong.

Free guide

First 24 Hours in a New Country

The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.

Vietnam through my lens

Tap any photo to see it full size, or see all 119 photos from Vietnam.