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City guide · First time · Central Thailand

Bangkok for first-timers

From the immigration line at Suvarnabhumi to the train out of town: where to sleep, how the river works, what to eat and exactly where, the scams that are still running, and what a day really costs.

How long

3 or 4 full days

Plus a day trip if you can

Airports

BKK and DMK

Check which one you land at

Best months

Nov to Feb

Hot from March, wet from June

Visa

30 days, free

Plus a free arrival card online

Money

Baht, cards often OK

About 33.5 to $1

Daily budget

$40 to $120

Hostel to nice hotel

Bangkok is too big to see and too good to rush. Pick a base near the river and let the city come to you.

Most first trips go wrong in the same two places: a hotel that looked central on a map and isn’t, and a day spent sitting in traffic between sights that a boat would have joined in twenty minutes. Fix those two and Bangkok is one of the easiest big cities in Asia to be new in. The food alone is worth the flight.

This page runs in the order you’ll need it: before you fly, the airport, where to stay, how to move, what to eat, what’s worth a morning, nights, scams, a three-day plan, day trips, costs and getting out. The table near the end lists every place on the page with a map link.

The ten-second version

  • Fill in the free arrival card on tdac.immigration.go.th, and only there.
  • Stay by the river near a BTS station. Saphan Taksin is the sweet spot.
  • Use the river boats for the old town and the BTS or MRT for everything else.
  • Book cars in Grab or Bolt. Skip any tuk-tuk that offers a tour for 20 baht.
  • Nobody at the Grand Palace gate needs to tell you it’s closed. It isn’t.
  • Eat street food where the queue is local and the wok is hot.
  • Do sights before 11 am, rest through the heat, and go out after dark.

01 · Before you fly

Things to know before you go to Bangkok

Four things to sort at home. None takes long, and each one saves you money or a queue on arrival.

Visa

30 days free, plus an arrival card

Since September 15, 2026, Americans get 30 days visa-free for tourism. Fill in the Thailand Digital Arrival Card in the three days before you land. It’s free. Sites that charge for it are middlemen.

Money

Bring a card that refunds ATM fees

Thai ATMs charge foreign cards about 220 to 250 baht ($7) a withdrawal, on top of your bank’s fee, so take out the maximum each time. Malls, hotels and 7-Elevens take cards. Street food wants cash. I use a Schwab Investor Checking debit card, which refunds ATM fees (my referral link).

Phone

Load an eSIM before takeoff

Install an Airalo eSIM at home and switch it on when you land. The airport SIM desks work too, but the queue after a long flight is the last thing you need.

Apps

Grab, Bolt, Google Maps

Grab and Bolt for cars and bike taxis at a fixed price, Grab for food delivery, and Google Maps, which handles the BTS, MRT and river boats well. Download Thai in Google Translate for offline use.

The best time to visit Bangkok

Bangkok is hot all year. What changes is the humidity and the rain. I was there in September: an hour of rain most afternoons, then steam.

MonthsTemperatureRainVerdict
Nov to Feb25 to 32 °C (77 to 90 °F)Almost noneThe best of it. Book early for Dec and Jan
Mar to May30 to 36 °C (86 to 97 °F)Rare, then stormsProperly hot. April is the peak
Jun to Oct27 to 33 °C (81 to 91 °F)Daily downpoursCheaper and greener. Sept is the wettest

Watch the calendar · Songkran

Thai New Year runs April 13 to 15.

The whole city turns into a water fight, centred on Khao San Road and Silom. Brilliant if you want in, a soaking if you don’t. Hotels fill and many locals leave town. Loy Krathong, in November, is the calm one: candles floated on the river.

Pack

  • Long trousers or a skirt past the knee and something with sleeves. The Grand Palace turns people away for shorts and bare shoulders.
  • Sandals you can slip off fast. Temples want shoes off.
  • A light layer for the BTS and the malls. The air con is set to arctic.

A little history

1782

the year King Rama I moved the capital across the river from Thonburi and founded the Bangkok you’ll walk around.

168

letters in the city’s full ceremonial name, Krung Thep Maha Nakhon and onwards. Thais just say Krung Thep.

1932

the year a bloodless revolution ended absolute monarchy. The Democracy Monument marks it on Ratchadamnoen Avenue.

1999

the year the BTS Skytrain opened, on the King’s birthday, and Bangkok finally got above its traffic.

02 · Landing

Suvarnabhumi and Don Mueang to the city: the first two hours

Long-haul flights land at Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Budget airlines like AirAsia mostly use Don Mueang (DMK), 30 km north. Check your ticket. Here’s the order things happen at either one.

01

20 to 60 min

Immigration

Have your passport, your return or onward ticket, and the TDAC confirmation on your phone. Lines at Suvarnabhumi swing from twenty minutes to an hour depending on how many long-haul flights land at once.

02

10 min

Cash

Skip the exchange desks in the arrivals hall. Go down to the basement by the Airport Rail Link, where the booths (SuperRich and others) give city rates. Change $100 to $200, or use a bank ATM and take the maximum in one go.

03

0 or 20 min

Data

If your eSIM is installed, switch it on. If not, the AIS, True and dtac desks in arrivals sell tourist SIMs with a month of data. Bring your passport.

04

30 to 60 min

Into the city

For the Riverside, take the Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai and a Grab from there, or a Grab all the way. Official taxis leave from the rank on level 1: take a queue ticket, insist on the meter, and expect a 50 baht airport surcharge plus tolls.

Rail Link: 45 baht Grab: about 400 to 600 baht Meter taxi: about 300 to 500 baht

05

The rest of day 1

Drop the bags and find the river

Don’t plan anything. Check in, shower, sleep if you need to, then walk to the nearest pier and take any boat a few stops and back at sunset. Dinner on the street. Bed early. The jet lag is real.

Airport to the city, every option

OptionCostTimeGood forBook
Airport Rail Link (BKK)15 to 45 baht26 min to Phaya ThaiLight bags, daytime, Sukhumvit and SiamTap a contactless card at the gate
Grab or Bolt (BKK)About 400 to 600 baht with tolls30 to 60 minLate arrivals, groups, the RiversideGrab or Bolt
Meter taxi (BKK)About 300 to 500 baht all in30 to 60 minWhen the apps are surgingRank on level 1, queue ticket
SRT Red Line (DMK)About 20 to 40 baht15 min to Krung Thep AphiwatLight bags, then MRT anywhereStation across the footbridge
Grab or Bolt (DMK)About 250 to 450 baht30 to 50 minMost people landing at Don MueangGrab or Bolt

03 · Where to stay

Where to stay in Bangkok: by the river, near a BTS station

Bangkok is huge and its traffic is famous. Where you sleep decides how much of your trip you spend in a car. Pick the river and a train line and the city shrinks.

Chao Phraya River BTS Saphan Taksin + Sathorn Pier BTS Siam BTS line Old town Banglamphu Chinatown Riverside Sukhumvit Thonburi Siam Grand Palace Wat Pho Wat Arun Khao San Road Golden Mount Jim Thompson House Lumphini Park ICONSIAM ↑ Chatuchak · Don Mueang (DMK) 40 to 60 min by Grab Suvarnabhumi (BKK) → 45 to 60 min · Airport Rail Link Riverside: stay here Old town: temples, no BTS Chinatown: eat here Sukhumvit: transit, late nights Sight on this page Not to scale. North is up.

My pick

Riverside

Charoen Krung and the Silom end of the river. Boats north to the temples, the BTS east to everything else, and Chinatown a short ride away.

Sights

Old town (Banglamphu)

Walk to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho and eat well at night. No BTS, so anything east means a boat, the MRT or a Grab.

Food

Chinatown (Yaowarat)

The best street food in the city outside your door, and an MRT station on the Blue Line. Loud and hot by day, magic after dark.

Nightlife

Sukhumvit

Hotels, malls and bars along the BTS, and easy for everything modern. Far from the temples, and parts of it are seedy.

Budget

Old town or Chinatown hostel

Dorm beds from about 300 to 500 baht ($9 to $15), private rooms from about $25. Easy for meeting people, close to the night food.

Where I’d book

Small hotel near Saphan Taksin

A private room for about $40 to $80, a pool more often than not, and both the pier and the BTS a few minutes’ walk away.

Splurge

Mandarin Oriental

Bangkok’s grand riverside hotel since 1876, with its own boat across the river. Expect $500 and up a night. A drink on the terrace costs less.

04 · Getting around

How to get around Bangkok: boats, trains, then Grab

Road traffic is the thing to avoid. The BTS and MRT run above and below it, the river runs beside it, and a car only makes sense at night or in the rain.

The one thing to learn · The river

The Chao Phraya is Bangkok’s best road

The orange-flag express boat runs north from Sathorn Pier about every 15 to 20 minutes from 6 am to 7 pm, for about 18 baht a ride, paid to the conductor. These five stops are the whole old town.

CEN

Sathorn

Change to the BTS at Saphan Taksin. The start of everything.

N5

Ratchawong

Walk up into Chinatown and Yaowarat Road.

N8

Tha Tien

Wat Pho. The cross-river ferry to Wat Arun leaves here.

N9

Tha Chang

The Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew.

N13

Phra Arthit

Banglamphu, Khao San Road and the old town at night.

The blue-flag tourist boat stops at the same piers with English commentary and costs more. Fine if the orange one is packed. Don’t let anyone at the pier sell you a private longtail by mistake.

Boats on the Chao Phraya River with bougainvillea in the foreground, Bangkok

Every way to get around

HowCostUse it for
BTS SkytrainAbout 17 to 65 baht a rideSiam, Sukhumvit, Silom, Chatuchak. Tap a contactless card
MRT subwayAbout 17 to 45 baht a rideChinatown, Wat Pho (Sanam Chai), Hua Lamphong, Lumphini
Orange-flag boatAbout 18 bahtThe old town, temples and Chinatown from the Riverside
Grab or Bolt carAbout 100 to 250 baht across townEvenings, rain, anything off the train lines
Motorbike taxiAbout 20 to 60 bahtShort hops in traffic. Orange vests, helmet on
Meter taxi35 baht flag, cheap after thatFine if the driver uses the meter. If not, get out
Tuk-tukAbout 100 to 300 baht, agreed firstOnce, at night, for fun. Never for a tour

Coming in 2027 · One fare

The government revoked the short-lived 20-baht flat fare in June 2026. A unified fare of about 17 to 45 baht a trip, covering transfers between the BTS and MRT, is due from January 1, 2027. Until then, each line charges separately, so a BTS-to-MRT trip means two fares.

05 · Eat

What to eat in Bangkok, and exactly where

Bangkok eats all day and late into the night. Many of the best places do one dish and close when it runs out, so the times matter as much as the addresses.

A boat noodle stall with braised duck, red pork, eggs and baskets of noodles beside a canal
A plate of stir-fried wide rice noodles with chicken, egg and spring onion
An overhead spread of Thai dishes: wide rice noodles, massaman curry, jasmine rice, chicken wings and fish cakes

Breakfast · Jok

Jok Prince, Charoen Krung Soi 42

Silky rice porridge with pork balls, ginger and an egg, cooked over charcoal in a shophouse near the river. A Bib Gourmand for years and still cheap.

Lunch · Roast duck

Prachak, 1415 Charoen Krung

Roast duck and red pork over rice, served since 1909 in a plain room across from Robinson. Order the duck and a plate of the crispy pork to share.

Lunch · Khao man gai

Go-Ang Pratunam, Phetchaburi Soi 30

Poached chicken on rice cooked in chicken fat, with ginger-soy sauce and a cup of broth. The staff in pink shirts move the queue fast.

Anytime · Pad thai

Thipsamai, 313 Maha Chai Road

The famous one, near the Golden Mount. Get the version wrapped in a thin omelette, and the fresh orange juice. The queue moves, and it’s worth one visit.

Lunch · Boat noodles

Boat Noodle Alley, Victory Monument

Tiny bowls of dark, spiced pork or beef noodle soup, a few bites each. You order five or six and stack the bowls. It’s a canalside lane off the roundabout.

Dinner · Som tam

Hai Somtam, Convent Road

Green papaya salad pounded to order with grilled chicken, sticky rice and larb, in a busy room off Silom. Ask for it mild if you’re new to Isaan heat.

Night · Kuay jap

Nai Ek Roll Noodles, Yaowarat Soi 9

Peppery broth with rolled rice noodles and crispy pork belly, open late in the middle of Chinatown. The meal that makes the walk down Yaowarat make sense.

Lunch · Pork noodles

Rung Rueang, Sukhumvit Soi 26

Pork noodle soup where you pick the noodle, the broth (clear or tom yum) and the size. Fast, cheap, and a short walk from BTS Phrom Phong.

Dessert · Mango sticky rice

Mae Varee, Thong Lo

Ripe mango, sweet sticky rice and coconut cream, packed to take away at the foot of BTS Thong Lo. Best from March to June, when mangoes are in season.

Markets and food courts

When you’d rather wander and point than hunt down an address.

Market · Fancy

Or Tor Kor

Bangkok’s cleanest fresh market, next to Chatuchak. Perfect fruit, curries by the bag and a food court.

Food court · Cheap

Pier 21, Terminal 21

A mall food court with street prices and air con. Good on your first day, when you want to point and pay.

Market · Local

Wang Lang

A narrow market by the hospital on the Thonburi bank. Lunch with nurses and students, one boat stop from the Grand Palace.

Night · The big one

Yaowarat Road

Chinatown’s main road fills with stalls from about 6 pm. Seafood, toast, noodles and fruit. Go hungry, and graze.

How to eat street food without getting sick

  • Eat where the queue is local and long. Fast turnover means fresh food.
  • Pick stalls that cook to order over high heat.
  • Ice in restaurants and at busy stalls is factory-made and safe. Tap water isn’t.
  • Go easy for the first two days while your stomach adjusts.
  • Carry small notes. Nobody wants to break a 1,000 at 9 pm.

Want someone to show you?

A night food tour, then a cooking class

A Chinatown food walk by tuk-tuk or on foot runs about $40 to $90 with ten or so tastings (compare tours on GetYourGuide). For a class, Silom Thai Cooking School starts with a market walk and runs about 1,000 to 1,500 baht. Both are good on your first or second night.

Free guide · First 24 Hours in a New Country

Your first night in Bangkok, planned before you board.

The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.

06 · See and do

The best things to do in Bangkok

Most of the big sights sit within a mile of each other in the old town, all reached by the same boat. Do them before lunch. By 2 pm the heat wins.

The golden Phra Si Rattana Chedi rising over tiled roofs at Wat Phra Kaew in the Grand Palace, Bangkok

Must

Grand Palace and Wat Phra Kaew

The royal palace and the Emerald Buddha in one gilded compound. 500 baht, 8:30 am to 3:30 pm last entry. Go at opening, dressed for it.

Row of golden Buddhas at Wat Pho, Bangkok

Must

Wat Pho

The 46-meter reclining Buddha, and the galleries of seated ones I photographed. 300 baht, 8 am to 6:30 pm. The massage school here is the real thing.

The porcelain-mosaic central prang of Wat Arun in Bangkok, with visitors on its terraces

Worth it

Wat Arun

The Temple of Dawn, its spire covered in broken porcelain. 200 baht, 8 am to 6 pm. Cross by the little ferry from Tha Tien, then see it lit up from the other bank.

Old town

Golden Mount (Wat Saket)

About 300 steps up an artificial hill to a gold chedi and the best free-ish view of the old town. About 100 baht. Late afternoon is best.

Old town

Bangkok National Museum

Thai history from the Sukhothai kings onward, in a former palace by Sanam Luang. About 200 baht. Closed Monday and Tuesday.

Siam

Jim Thompson House

Six teak houses from the American silk trader who vanished in Malaysia in 1967. Guided tours only, about 200 baht, 10 am to 5 pm.

Silom

Lumphini Park

Lakes, joggers at dawn, outdoor gyms and monitor lizards the size of dogs. Free. Everyone stops still for the anthem at 6 pm.

Chinatown

Wat Traimit

A five-and-a-half-tonne solid gold Buddha, found by accident in 1955 under a plaster shell. About 100 baht. Start a Chinatown walk here.

Thonburi

ICONSIAM

The giant riverside mall, worth it for the indoor floating market on the ground floor, called SookSiam. Free shuttle boats from Sathorn Pier.

The honest take

What’s overrated, and what to do instead

Khao San Road is a backpacker strip, not Thailand. Walk it once at night for the spectacle, then eat on Phra Arthit Road one block over. The Grand Palace is worth it, but crowded by 10 am, so be at the gate at 8:30. The big floating markets near the city are mostly staged. Chatuchak or a railway market is the better morning.

Weekend only

Chatuchak Weekend Market

More than 10,000 stalls on Saturday and Sunday, from about 9 am to 6 pm: clothes, plants, ceramics, vintage and coconut ice cream. Go early, before the heat, and drink more water than you think you need. MRT Chatuchak Park or BTS Mo Chit. Map.

Plan around the week

Bangkok runs on a weekly rhythm

Mon

The temples and palace are open. Many street stalls in tourist areas take the day off, and the National Museum is shut.

Tue to Thu

The quiet middle. Best days for the Grand Palace, and the Chatuchak plant market runs Wednesday and Thursday.

Fri

Bars fill from 6 pm. The Amphawa floating market starts its weekend in the late afternoon.

Sat and Sun

Chatuchak, Amphawa, Koh Kret and Chinatown all at full volume. Temples are busiest. Book the weekend early.

07 · Nights

Bangkok at night: where to go after dark

Bangkok wakes up at sunset, when it’s finally cool enough to walk. These are the nights worth having. Sukhumvit’s go-go bars are not on the list.

A candied-fruit stall under hanging bulbs and neon signs on Yaowarat Road at night, Bangkok

Rooftop

A drink above the river

Sky Bar at Lebua is the famous one, with a dress code and cocktails around 1,000 baht. Get there by 6 pm for the sunset.

Market

Jodd Fairs

A night market by MRT Rama 9 with grilled seafood, cheap beer and the mountain of pork ribs everyone photographs. Busiest after 8 pm.

Fight night

Muay thai at Rajadamnern

The oldest stadium in town, near the old town. Tickets from about 1,500 to 2,000 baht. Sit with the gamblers for the noise.

Old town

Phra Arthit and Soi Rambuttri

The calm side of Banglamphu: bars with live music, tables on the street, cheaper beer than Khao San next door.

Chinatown

Soi Nana, Chinatown

Not the Sukhumvit Soi Nana. A lane of small cocktail and wine bars in old shophouses, a few minutes’ walk from Yaowarat.

River

A dinner cruise, or just the ferry

The big buffet boats are about $40 to $70. The cheaper move is the cross-river ferry at dusk for a few baht, then dinner at Wang Lang.

08 · Scams

Common scams in Bangkok, and how to avoid them

Bangkok is a safe city. These cost you money and an afternoon, not your passport. They’ve been running for decades because they work on tired people, so read them now.

The scamHow it goesWhat to do
The palace is closedA friendly man near the Grand Palace says it’s shut today for a ceremony, then waves down a tuk-tuk for you.It’s open daily, apart from a few royal events listed on the official site. Walk past to the real gate.
The 20-baht tuk-tuk tourA driver offers a whole afternoon of temples for almost nothing.He’s paid in fuel vouchers to stop at gem and tailor shops. Say no thanks and use Grab.
The gem bargainA stranger, often a ‘student’ or ‘teacher’, tells you about a one-day government gem sale.There is no such sale. The stones are worth a fraction of the price. Walk away.
No meterA taxi quotes a flat fare, often several times the meter, especially at night and near hotels.Ask for the meter before you get in. If they won’t, wave down the next one or book in the app.
Fake arrival card sitesSearch results and ads point you to lookalike TDAC sites that charge $20 to $50.The real one is tdac.immigration.go.th and it’s free.
The bill at a show barA tout in Patpong or Nana promises a free show, then the bill arrives in thousands.Don’t follow touts upstairs. If it happens, pay for your drinks only and call the tourist police on 1155.
Bracelets and pigeon feedSomeone ties a string bracelet on your wrist, or pours seed in your hand, then asks for money.Keep your hands to yourself and keep walking. A firm ‘mai ao’ (don’t want) works.

09 · Fitting in

Thai etiquette and the ten phrases worth learning

Men end polite phrases with khrap, women with kha. Get that right and people light up.

Manners and tipping

  • Never criticize the King or the royal family, even as a joke. It’s a serious crime here.
  • Stand still when the national anthem plays, at 8 am and 6 pm in parks and stations, and before films.
  • Feet are low, heads are high. Don’t point your feet at people or Buddha images, and don’t touch heads.
  • Shoes off at temples and homes. Women shouldn’t touch monks or hand things to them directly.
  • Tipping is small and welcome: round up for drivers, 20 to 50 baht for a massage, 10 percent at sit-down restaurants without a service charge.
  • Smile and keep your voice down. Losing your temper loses you the argument.
EnglishThaiSay it like
HelloSawasdee khrap / khasa-wat-DEE krap / kaa
Thank youKhop khun khrap / khakop-KOON krap / kaa
How much?Tao rai?tao-RAI
Not spicyMai phetmy PET
A little spicyPhet nit noipet nit NOY
DeliciousAroia-ROY
The bill, pleaseCheck bincheck BIN
I don’t want itMai aomy OW
No problemMai pen raimy pen RAI
Where’s the toilet?Hong nam yoo tee nai?hong NAHM yoo tee NAI

10 · Itinerary

3 days in Bangkok: the itinerary

One area a day, so you’re on a boat or a train, not in a car. Swap days around for the weekend markets.

Day 1

The old town by boat

  • Morning: orange boat to Tha Chang, the Grand Palace at 8:30.
  • Lunch: Wang Lang market, one ferry stop across.
  • Afternoon: Wat Pho, a massage, then the ferry to Wat Arun.
  • Night: Phra Arthit Road for dinner and a beer.

Day 2

Chinatown and the river

  • Morning: Wat Traimit and the lanes of Sampeng market.
  • Lunch: roast duck at Prachak.
  • Afternoon: hotel pool, or Jim Thompson House if it’s raining.
  • Night: Yaowarat Road, Nai Ek, then Soi Nana’s bars.

Day 3

Modern Bangkok

  • Morning: Chatuchak on a weekend, Or Tor Kor on a weekday.
  • Lunch: boat noodles at Victory Monument.
  • Afternoon: Lumphini Park as it cools down.
  • Night: a rooftop at sunset, then Jodd Fairs.
Rock garden, waterfall and pond with chedis at Wat Pho, Bangkok
The rock garden at Wat Pho, Bangkok, September 2023.

11 · Day trips

The best day trips from Bangkok

Bangkok is a good hub. Three of these are full days, and one is a lazy half.

A seated Buddha and rows of headless Buddha statues among the brick ruins of Wat Mahathat in Ayutthaya

1.5 hours north

Ayutthaya

The old capital, burned by the Burmese in 1767. Temple ruins, a Buddha head in tree roots, and bikes for rent by the station. Trains from Krung Thep Aphiwat.

Wooden longboats and a fruit seller on a canal at a floating market outside Bangkok

1.5 to 2 hours west

Maeklong and Amphawa

The railway market, where stalls fold back for a train eight times a day, then Amphawa’s weekend canal market. Better than the staged one at Damnoen Saduak.

The wooden Wang Pho viaduct of the Death Railway curving along a cliff above the Khwae Noi River in Kanchanaburi

2.5 to 3 hours west

Kanchanaburi

The Bridge on the River Kwai, the war cemetery and the Death Railway along the cliffs. Long for a day trip. It’s better as a night on the way to somewhere else.

A short one · Half a day

Koh Kret, the pottery island

A car-free island in the river north of the city, settled by the Mon people and known for its terracotta. Rent a bike, loop it in an hour, and eat fried flowers and Mon curry. Best on weekends. Grab to Pak Kret, then the 2-baht ferry. Map.

The Reclining Buddha's gold body down the length of the hall at Wat Pho
All 46 metres of it, Wat Pho, Bangkok, September 2023.

12 · Costs

How much does Bangkok cost?

Bangkok can be very cheap or very not, often on the same street. Prices in baht, with dollars at about 33.5 baht to the dollar.

A bed

$9 to $80

A dorm from 300 baht to a good small hotel by the river. Splurges start around $150.

Street food

50 to 120 baht

A plate of noodles, rice or a bowl of soup. A sit-down Thai meal is 200 to 500.

Getting around

100 to 300 baht

A day of BTS, MRT and boats, plus one Grab home at night.

Sights

200 to 500 baht

Each of the big three. A full temple day runs about 1,000 baht.

A massage

300 to 600 baht

An hour of Thai massage at a neighborhood shop. Hotel spas charge five times that.

A beer

70 to 400 baht

A big Chang from a 7-Eleven, or a rooftop cocktail at the top end.

A day in Bangkok

$40 to $120

About $40 in a hostel, on street food and trains, with one sight. About $75 in a small hotel with a sit-down dinner, a massage and a Grab or two. About $120 with a pool, a rooftop drink and a food tour.

Four days in Bangkok runs about $160 to $480 per person, before flights.

13 · Leaving

Leaving Bangkok: the airport and the train

However you go, leave more time than the map says.

Timing

Leave three hours for BKK

Suvarnabhumi is big and its security lines can be slow. Leave the Riverside about three hours before an international flight, two for Don Mueang.

Getting there

Rail Link by day, Grab by night

The Airport Rail Link from Phaya Thai is the fastest way when traffic is bad. After about 10 pm, or with big bags, take a Grab.

Leftover cash

Spend it, or claim your VAT

Spend coins at a 7-Eleven. If you shopped big, claim back the 7 percent VAT at the airport: keep the forms from shops showing the VAT refund sign.

Going north instead?

Take the night train to Chiang Mai

The sleeper leaves Krung Thep Aphiwat at 18:40 and reaches Chiang Mai the next morning, about 940 to 1,040 baht for a second-class berth. It’s the second leg of my Thailand in 14 days route, with the berths explained.

Plan your trip · What I use · Some are affiliate links

Entry

The Thailand Digital Arrival Card, free on the official site

Data

Airalo eSIM for Thailand

Beds

Booking.com or Agoda for small hotels, Hostelworld for dorms

Food tours

GetYourGuide or Viator for Chinatown walks

Rides

Grab or Bolt, whichever is cheaper

Trains

12Go for Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai and the south

Every place

Every place on this page

Screenshot it. Each name opens in Google Maps.

PlaceWhatWhereWhen
Grand PalacePalace and templeOld town, Tha Chang Pier8:30 am, 500 baht
Wat PhoTemple, massageOld town, Tha Tien Pier8 am to 6:30 pm, 300 baht
Wat ArunTempleThonburi, ferry from Tha Tien8 am to 6 pm, 200 baht
Golden MountTemple, viewOld townLate afternoon
Bangkok National MuseumMuseumOld townClosed Mon and Tue
Jim Thompson HouseMuseumSiam, BTS National Stadium10 am to 5 pm
Lumphini ParkParkSilom, MRT LumphiniDawn or dusk
Wat TraimitTempleChinatownMorning
ICONSIAMMall, indoor marketThonburi, boat from SathornAfternoon
Chatuchak Weekend MarketMarketBTS Mo ChitSat and Sun, early
Or Tor KorMarketMRT Kamphaeng PhetMorning
Wang Lang MarketMarketThonburi, Wang Lang PierLunch
Pier 21Food courtBTS AsokAnytime
Jok PrinceRice porridgeCharoen Krung Soi 42Breakfast
PrachakRoast duckCharoen KrungLunch
Go-Ang PratunamChicken ricePratunamLunch
ThipsamaiPad thaiOld townEvening
Boat Noodle AlleyBoat noodlesVictory MonumentLunch
Hai SomtamIsaan foodSilomDinner
Nai Ek Roll NoodlesKuay japChinatownNight
Rung RueangPork noodlesSukhumvit Soi 26Lunch
Mae VareeMango sticky riceThong LoAfternoon
Yaowarat RoadStreet foodChinatownAfter 6 pm
Sky Bar, LebuaRooftop barRiversideSunset
Jodd FairsNight marketMRT Rama 9After 8 pm
Rajadamnern StadiumMuay thaiOld townEvening
Soi Nana, ChinatownBarsChinatownNight
Koh KretIslandNonthaburiWeekend

Questions

Bangkok FAQ: questions people ask before their first trip

Is Bangkok worth visiting?

Yes. It has some of the best food in the world, temples you can’t see anywhere else, and it’s cheap and easy to get around once you know about the river and the trains.

How many days do you need in Bangkok?

Three or four full days covers the old town, Chinatown, a market and a night out. Add a day for Ayutthaya or the railway market.

Is Bangkok safe for tourists?

Yes. Violent crime against visitors is rare. The real risks are scams, traffic and the heat, and pickpockets in crowded markets.

Where should I stay in Bangkok for the first time?

By the river near BTS Saphan Taksin. You get boats to the temples and the Skytrain to the rest of the city. The old town is the second choice.

Do Americans need a visa for Thailand?

Not for a short trip. Since September 15, 2026, Americans get 30 days visa-free for tourism. You must fill in the free Thailand Digital Arrival Card online in the three days before you land.

How do I get from Suvarnabhumi airport to the city?

The Airport Rail Link to Phaya Thai costs 45 baht and takes about 26 minutes. A Grab or a meter taxi costs about 300 to 600 baht with tolls and takes 30 to 60 minutes.

Is Grab or a taxi cheaper in Bangkok?

A metered taxi is usually cheaper, if the driver uses the meter. Grab and Bolt cost a bit more but the price is fixed, which avoids arguments.

What is the best month to visit Bangkok?

November to February, when it’s driest and least humid. April is the hottest month, and September is usually the wettest.

What should I wear to the Grand Palace?

Long trousers or a skirt below the knee and a top that covers your shoulders. No ripped jeans. You can buy cover-ups outside, but it’s easier to dress for it.

Is the Grand Palace worth it?

Yes, once. It’s the most impressive sight in the city and the most crowded. Arrive at 8:30 when it opens and give it two hours.

Is street food in Bangkok safe?

Mostly, yes. Choose busy stalls that cook to order over high heat, drink bottled water, and ease in over the first couple of days.

Can I use credit cards in Bangkok?

In malls, hotels, 7-Elevens and most restaurants, yes. Street food, markets, boats and tuk-tuks want cash, so carry small notes.

How much money do I need per day in Bangkok?

About $40 a day on a budget, $75 in comfort, and $120 or more if you want nice hotels and rooftop drinks.

Do I need to tip in Bangkok?

It isn’t expected, but it’s appreciated. Round up taxi fares, leave 20 to 50 baht after a massage, and about 10 percent at sit-down restaurants without a service charge.

Is Khao San Road worth it?

Once, at night, for the spectacle. It’s a backpacker party street. Stay or eat a block away on Phra Arthit Road or Soi Rambuttri.

What should I avoid in Bangkok?

Anyone who says the Grand Palace is closed, cheap tuk-tuk tours, gem shops, taxis that won’t use the meter, and paying for the arrival card.

What is the best day trip from Bangkok?

Ayutthaya, the old capital, about 1.5 hours away by train. The Maeklong railway market and Amphawa make a good second choice on a weekend.

Where to next

The ruined brick chedi of Wat Chedi Luang in Chiang Mai's old city

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Thailand in 14 days

Bangkok, the night train to Chiang Mai, Pai and Koh Lanta.

Mosaic demon guardian statues holding up a golden chedi at Wat Phra Kaew, Bangkok

Country page

Thailand

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Hazy riverside towers in Bangkok, including The Peninsula and the Shangri-La

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First 24 Hours in a New Country

The plan for your first day anywhere. Free with the letter.

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