Destinations · Central America

Costa Rica

Volcanoes, cloud forest and two coasts, including the Caribbean side where I spent ten weeks.

Currency

Colón (CRC)

US visa

Visa-free, up to 180 days

Ride app

Uber in San José

Best time

Dec to Apr

Tap water

Safe in most places

Daily budget

About $60

Hostel or cabina, local food

Routes

How much time have you got?

Fly into San José. The short route goes east to the Caribbean side, where I lived. The classic is the volcano, the cloud forest and the Pacific, and the longest route does both coasts. Each one gets its own day-by-day itinerary.

Dirt hiking trail through dense tropical rainforest in Costa Rica

Short on time

7 days, 6 nights

Puerto Viejo · Cahuita · Manzanillo

One long shuttle east from San José, then a week on the Caribbean coast: Puerto Viejo, the beaches south to Manzanillo and a day in Cahuita’s national park. It’s where I spent ten weeks in 2021.

Full itinerary coming soon

Wooden boardwalk with cable railings through coastal jungle and palms toward the ocean

My pick · The classic

10 days, 9 nights

La Fortuna · Monteverde · Manuel Antonio

Volcano, cloud forest, then the Pacific. Four nights in La Fortuna, two in Monteverde, three at Manuel Antonio, which is two and a half hours from the airport.

Full itinerary coming soon

Wild beach strewn with driftwood where dense jungle meets turquoise sea

See it all

16 days, 15 nights

Tortuguero · Puerto Viejo · La Fortuna · Monteverde · Manuel Antonio

Start east: Tortuguero’s canals, then four nights in Puerto Viejo, where I lived. One long shuttle day to La Fortuna, then the classic loop to the Pacific.

Full itinerary coming soon

Want to stay longer? Volunteer at a hostel. That’s how I spent ten weeks in Puerto Viejo.

Seasons

When to go

Dry season is December to April on most of the country. The Caribbean coast runs on its own calendar and is at its best in September and October.

Dry season

Dec to Apr

Sunny, busiest, book ahead

Green season

May to Aug

Afternoon rain, fewer people

Wettest

Sep to Nov

Except the Caribbean side

Read next

Stories from Costa Rica

I lived on the Caribbean side for ten weeks in 2021, mostly on dollar empanadas. One story is up now, the rest are on the way.

Story

Why My First Solo Trip Was Costa Rica

A spare bedroom in San José, then ten weeks working at a hostel in Puerto Viejo.

Town guide · Coming soon

Puerto Viejo for first-timers

Where to stay, where to swim, and which beach is worth the bike ride.

Money · Coming soon

What a day in Costa Rica actually costs

Rooms, food, shuttles, and why it costs more than people expect from Central America.

The monthly letter. One honest email on the 1st, plus a free field guide.

Before you go

What I’d sort out before the flight. Some of these are referral links.

Data

Airalo eSIM

Install it before you fly and you land with data. Coverage drops in the jungle, so download offline maps too.

Stay longer

Volunteer at a hostel

That’s how I spent ten weeks in Puerto Viejo: a few shifts a week for a free bed. Workaway is where I found it.

Free guide

First 24 Hours in a New Country

The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.