Destinations · Europe and Asia

Turkey

Istanbul first, then the valleys of Cappadocia and the ruins out west.

Currency

Lira (TRY)

US visa

Visa-free, 90 days

Ride app

BiTaksi or Uber

Best time

Apr to May, Sep to Oct

Tap water

Stick to bottled

Daily budget

About $55

Guesthouse room, local food

Routes

How much time have you got?

Every route starts in Istanbul, the part of Turkey I know. The two-week route goes on to Cappadocia and the west coast, which I haven’t seen yet, and that page says so. Each one gets its own day-by-day itinerary.

Hand holding a sesame-crusted simit in front of Galata Tower and a red nostalgic tram in Istanbul, Turkey

Short on time

4 days, 3 nights

Istanbul

The old city, the Grand Bazaar, a ferry across the Bosphorus and a night out on the Asian side. Enough for a first look, or a long layover done right.

Full itinerary coming soon

Rows of marble columns under lit brick vaults reflected in the water of the Basilica Cistern

My pick · Take it slow

7 days, 6 nights

Istanbul · Princes’ Islands · the Bosphorus

A week in one city, which sounds like a lot until you’re there. Time for the neighborhoods past the old city, a day on the car-free Princes’ Islands and a ferry up the Bosphorus toward the Black Sea.

Full itinerary coming soon

Courtyard of the Blue Mosque with cascading domes and minarets

See it all

14 days, 13 nights

Istanbul · Cappadocia · Pamukkale · Ephesus

Four nights in Istanbul, a short flight to Cappadocia for three, then the overnight bus west to Pamukkale and two nights in Selçuk for Ephesus. Fly home from Izmir.

Full itinerary coming soon

Flying in from the US? Add your travel days on top. Every length here is time on the ground.

Seasons

When to go

Shoulder season works for Istanbul, Cappadocia and the coast.

Best

Apr to May, Sep to Oct

Warm days, fewer crowds

Hot and busy

Jun to Aug

Book ahead

Cold and wet

Nov to Mar

Snow in Cappadocia

Read next

Stories from Turkey

I had about a week in Istanbul in September 2023, on my way overland into Europe. Cappadocia and the coast are still on my list, so I’ll say plainly which parts are research.

City guide · Coming soon

Istanbul for first-timers

Which side to stay on, how the ferries work, and what to eat first.

Ultimate guide · Coming soon

Bosphorus to the Baltic

Overland from Istanbul to Gdańsk by bus, train and one boat. The way I got home in 2023.

Money · Coming soon

How much a week in Istanbul costs

Rooms, food, ferries, and what the lira is doing this year.

The monthly letter. One honest email on the 1st, plus a free field guide.

Before you go

What I’d sort out before the flight. Some of these are referral links.

Data

Airalo eSIM

Install it before you fly and you land with data. Way easier than a local SIM registration.

Transit

Get an Istanbulkart

One card for the metro, trams, buses and the Bosphorus ferries. Machines at most stations.

Free guide

First 24 Hours in a New Country

The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.