Destinations · Asia
South Korea
Seoul, the old capital at Gyeongju, and Busan on the coast. All of it by fast train.
Currency
Won (KRW)
US visa
Visa-free, 90 days
Ride app
Kakao T
Best time
Apr to May, Sep to Nov
Tap water
Safe to drink
Daily budget
About $70
Hostel or guesthouse, local food
Routes
How much time have you got?
Korea’s trains run fast and on time, so the longer routes go further without wasting days. Each one gets its own day-by-day itinerary.
Short on time
5 days, 4 nights
Seoul
Stay put. Four nights in Seoul with one day trip to Suwon or the DMZ. On a trip this short, changing cities costs more than it gives.
Full itinerary coming soon
My pick · The classic
10 days, 9 nights
Seoul · Gyeongju · Busan
Four nights in Seoul, the KTX south to Gyeongju for two nights of tombs and temples, then three in Busan. Fly home from Busan instead of riding back.
Full itinerary coming soon
See it all
16 days, 15 nights
Seoul · Andong · Gyeongju · Busan · Jeju
East to Andong’s Hahoe Village first, then 45 minutes down the line to Gyeongju and on to Busan. Fly to Jeju for three nights, then an hour back to Seoul.
Full itinerary coming soon
Flying in from the US? Add your travel days on top. Every length here is time on the ground.
Seasons
When to go
Spring blossoms and fall colors are the two big windows.
Best
Apr to May, Sep to Nov
Blossoms, then fall colors
Hot and humid
Jun to Aug
Monsoon in July
Cold
Dec to Mar
Dry and freezing
Read next
Stories from South Korea
I spent June and July 2023 here. Every photo on this page is mine, fried chicken included. The guides are on the way.
City guide · Coming soon
Seoul for first-timers
Which neighborhood to stay in, how the subway works, and where to eat.
Honest take · Coming soon
Is the DMZ tour from Seoul worth it?
What you actually see, how to book it, and why you need your passport that morning.
Money · Coming soon
What a day in Korea actually costs
Rooms, food, trains, and whether it’s really as expensive as everyone says.
Before you go
What I’d sort out before the flight. Some of these are referral links.
Data
Airalo eSIM
Install it before you fly. You’ll need data for maps and Kakao T the minute you land.
Maps
Naver Map, not Google
Google Maps barely works for walking and transit in Korea. Download Naver Map before you go.
Free guide
First 24 Hours in a New Country
The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.