Destinations · Asia
Thailand
Bangkok, then the night train north to Chiang Mai and the mountains around it.
Currency
Baht (THB)
US visa
Visa-free, 30 days
Ride app
Grab or Bolt
Best time
Nov to Feb
Tap water
Don’t drink it
Daily budget
About $40
Guesthouse room, local food
Routes
How much time have you got?
Everything starts in Bangkok. The longer you stay, the further north and south you get. Each route gets its own day-by-day itinerary.
Short on time
7 days, 6 nights
Bangkok · Chiang Mai
Three nights in Bangkok, then a one-hour flight north for three in Chiang Mai. On a trip this short, skip the sleeper train and save the day.
Full itinerary coming soon
My pick · The classic
14 days, 13 nights
Bangkok · Chiang Mai · Pai · Koh Lanta
Three nights in Bangkok, the overnight sleeper to Chiang Mai, three nights up the mountain road in Pai, then a direct flight from Chiang Mai to Krabi and three on Koh Lanta.
Full itinerary coming soon
See it all
21 days, 20 nights
Bangkok · Kanchanaburi · Ayutthaya · Chiang Mai · Pai · Railay · Koh Lanta
West to Kanchanaburi first, then Ayutthaya, where you catch the sleeper train north. Chiang Mai and Pai, then fly south for Railay and Koh Lanta.
Full itinerary coming soon
Flying in from the US? Add your travel days on top. Every length here is time on the ground.
Seasons
When to go
For Bangkok and the north. The islands have their own rainy seasons.
Best
Nov to Feb
Dry and cooler
Hot
Mar to May
Smoky in the north
Rainy
Jun to Oct
Green and quiet
Read next
Stories from Thailand
I came through in 2023, near the end of a long loop around Southeast Asia: Laos, then Chiang Mai, then down to Bangkok. The islands I haven’t done yet. I’ll always say which parts are memory and which are research.
City guide · Coming soon
Bangkok for first-timers
Where to stay, how to get around, and what to eat first.
Route guide · Coming soon
The night train to Chiang Mai
Which class to book, what it costs, and what the ride is actually like.
Money · Coming soon
What a day in Thailand actually costs
Rooms, street food, trains, and how fast the 7-Eleven runs add up.
Before you go
What I’d sort out before the flight. Some of these are referral links.
Data
Airalo eSIM
Install it before you fly and you land with data. Grab won’t work without it.
Entry
Thailand Digital Arrival Card
Required for every arrival. It’s free on the official site, so skip the paid lookalikes.
Free guide
First 24 Hours in a New Country
The night before, hour by hour after landing, and the traps. Free with the monthly letter.